The 20 best European hotels for autumn

Autumn minibreaks often mean a staycation – but there are lots of options on the Continent for tapping into hygge, harvest and more

For some people this is a tricky time of year. Any Indian summer days (not that we had many of them this September) are a distant memory as October is upon us. As the nights draw in, winter begins to loom on the horizon like a malevolent spirit. For others though, the reverse is true. The French call this period “la rentrée”: an all-ages embracing of the back-to-school mentality and the opportunities for new beginnings it affords. With it comes a giddy sense of anticipation for the most beautiful months of the year, when hills, woodland and forest discard their uniform of green and explode into pockets of auburn and gold, carpeting the ground with piles of buttery-russet foliage.
There’s such an energy, a last-gasp joy to autumn; crisp, blue-skied mornings with days that are never too hot to hike or cycle, sunsets that drench the countryside with a light that has a depth and sinuosity never seen on the overexposed days of summer. It’s the time when the year’s work gives up its rewards; olive and grape harvests, crops pulled from the soil, the earth put to bed, a few months to rest and restore before the cycle begins again.
It’s a wonderful time to travel in Europe, when the Mediterranean settles back to a normal pace; the beaches free of crowds, the fields alive with olive pickers and vineyard workers, the air filled with the rhythmic snip of scissors on vine or, more common now, the rumble of mechanical grape harvesters. In regions such as Provence and Istria, tourist coaches are replaced by trucks heaped with fruit and vegetables; in Portugal the skies are filled with migrating birds, heading off to keep up with the sun. And there’s no better time to visit the mountains: catch the Dolomites between the last of the summer sun and the first snowfalls of winter, and you’ll find the mountains glowing in extraordinary shades unmatched at any other time of the year.
While not everyone will be convinced that an autumn holiday wins out over summer, a stay in any one of the places below guarantees a blissfully tranquil, quietly reflective break. These last weeks of sunlight and warmth on the Continent are a tonic for the soul; one last, flame-hued dance before winter truly sweeps in.
The different grape varieties in the Languedoc, one of the world’s most diverse wine regions, create a palate of blazing autumn colours; saffron, auburn and burnt red. There are walking routes from this chateau, bikes to hire and the Canal du Midi nearby. Accommodation comes in the form of 11 studio apartments, with private cottagess and houses converted from old farm buildings scattered through the grounds. The restaurant makes the most of local autumn produce – ceps, girolles and apples for a luscious tarte tatin, plus plenty of wine from the surrounding vineyards.
Doubles from £221, B&B (0033 46700 0067; lescarrasses.com)
The mountains and pastures of the South Tyrol are bathed in the “Enrosadira” in autumn, when the setting sun and humidity flood the peaks in hues of dusky pink, auburn and faded scarlet. Badia Hill is an impressive modernist building with glass-walled rooms offering panoramic views and a rooftop spa that’s the perfect recovery zone after a day’s hiking or e-biking. Food and drink is at the heart of the Hill; owners Michaela and Marco met working at a two-Michelin-starred restaurant and use their experience to offer the best of the South Tyrol’s rich produce, with two restaurants (Porcino and the more relaxed Bistro Badia Hill) plus snacks (cold cuts, cheeses and Italian appetisers) – available throughout the afternoon.
Doubles from £365, B&B (0039 047118 08060; badiahill.com)
Go off grid for a few days at the Kokapu, hidden away in a leafy valley in the beautiful Zemplén mountains, with no Wi-Fi and little phone signal. In autumn, the surrounding trees flame with colour and there’s a good chance of spotting eagles, great bustards and cranes that glide above the canopy on their autumn migration route, with deer, badgers and hare scuttling between the trees. The hotel is split between a historic hunting mansion and a newer building that also houses the restaurant and wellness area, which has two pools (one for children), a sauna and hot tub. The five suites in the historic hunting mansion are the ones to go for (although there is a lot of taxidermy). During the day there are bikes to borrow, hiking trails nearby and boats to take out on the picturesque lake. 
Doubles from £65, B&B (0036 47 370032; kokapu.hu)
With the temperature hovering around 19C in October, Istria – Croatia’s olive and vine-swathed northernmost province – offers a last glimpse of warm Mediterranean sunshine. In autumn, the region’s forests, vineyards and olive groves come alive with harvesters and truffle hunters. Wine and olive oil tastings are available at the Meneghetti, where accommodation ranges from private villas and residences (some with private pools) in the grounds to 10 cosy rooms and suites in the main house, all with a view of the vineyards. The restaurant specialises in farm-to-table dishes, both at the poolside Oliveto restaurant – ideal for lazy, sunlit lunches – and the Meneghetti restaurant, which serves classic Istrian dishes.
Doubles from £210, B&B (00385 52 528800; meneghetti.hr)
Hidden away among 100 acres of oak, chestnut trees and lush forest in the heart of the Sierra de Aracena National Park, Buenvino – run by the same family for 40 years – offers an idyllic outdoorsy break in late autumn sun. There are just five traditionally furnished rooms and suites, with cottages dotted throughout the estate, and a wide array of activities on offer, from birdwatching and hiking to canoeing and caving, along with tasting trips to local specialist food producers. A three-course set dinner is served, or for more choice head to the buzzy town of Aracena, five miles away.
Doubles from £105, B&B (0034 959 124034; fincabuenvino.com)
Hidden away in the Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve, and owned and run by two charming brothers, Josu and Gaizka, the Nafarrola is an eight-room eco-retreat that makes a great base for exploring the unspoilt hinterland of the Basque country. In autumn, the vineyards give up their harvest for the local Txakoli wine, with the flame-hued forests ripe for exploring on foot or bike. Bespoke itineraries can be created by the brothers. Rooms are minimalist, with exposed stone walls and wooden beams characteristic of a Basque farmhouse, along with king-sized beds and hot tubs or baths for post-walk soaks. The Rola restaurant offers upscale farm-to-table dining using local, seasonal produce from surrounding farms and suppliers.
Doubles from £127, room-only (0034 61300 6827; hotelnafarrola.com)
Greece’s intense heat fades in autumn, making it an ideal time for hiking along the spectacular coastline of northern Greece, or discovering the forest-clad slopes of Mount Holomontas looming behind it. Guests here can join in with the olive harvest that takes place in the groves around picturesque Arnea village, with the hotel’s patchwork of pools and Elysium spa a relaxing place to return to after a day in the fields. The design is light and contemporary throughout, from the chic, unfussy rooms to the Apiro restaurant, which transforms from a taverna-style offering by day to a Japanese restaurant in the evening. Although this is a classic fly-and-flop setting, there’s plenty on offer for more active guests, from cocktail and cookery lessons to sunset cruises and snorkelling excursions.
Doubles from £211, B&B (0030 2374 020930; coraresort.com)
The autumn colours that fire up in the forests around Bled are made even more spectacular by being reflected in the still waters of the lake, and Villa Adora – originally built in 1878 – is the ideal place to soak up the region’s extraordinary natural beauty. The seven suites have a languidly graceful feel, with gleaming parquet floors, a mix of antique and contemporary furniture and gleaming chandeliers, some with balconies overlooking the lake. There’s no restaurant, but the town of Bled is a 15-minute stroll away, with the chance to canoe or kayak out onto the lake, or ride on a “pletna” – a traditional wooden boat to Bled island.
Doubles from £319, room-only (0038 651 603858; adorabled.com)
The sweeping plateaux, vine-covered valleys and dramatic gorges of the Tarn region, one of France’s more under-the-radar parts, are ideal for some autumn exploration. This elegantly restored 19th-century chateau has surprisingly eclectic interiors that pop with vivid colours – hot pink, bottle green – and 1970s-style furnishings in the 16 rooms. The hotel’s ownership – it’s part of the Asian-based Pavilions group – comes through in the Revivo spa, where traditional Balinese therapies are on offer alongside an Icelandic plunge pool, yoga and meditation classes in the newly constructed “shala” and a classic hammam. The food, however, remains European, with chef Jérôme Travere delivering fine-dining dishes in the chic Renaissance restaurant.
Doubles from £285, room-only (0033 55472 1010; chateaudefiac.com)
Valdemossa is one of the most beautiful towns on the Spanish island of Majorca. Its leafy streets, and the vast peaks of the Tramuntana mountains that rise up around it, shake off the summer crowds as the season turns, leaving it peacefully swathed in foliage. The Hotel Valdemossa opened in February, an adults-only bolthole of 12 rustically elegant rooms combining warm caramel décor with contemporary art and panoramic views. The hotel has a partnership with local hiking guide Martin Bestard to create private trips, including trails through vineyards and private land not normally accessible to visitors. Dinners are Japanese-Peruvian courtesy of De Tokio a Lima, an outpost of one of Palma’s most renowned restaurants.
Doubles from £398, B&B (0034 971 612626; valldemossahotel.com)
Santorini’s sunset over the island’s extraordinary volcanic caldera is one of the world’s most extraordinary, best seen when the autumn sun is at a lower angle and some of the cruise crowds that have blighted the island this summer have disappeared. Andronis’s 28 suites and villas, some with private pools, have blistering sea views, with muted décor, abstract art and contemporary wooden furniture. This autumn, the hotel is offering a “harvest haven” experience, with time in the hotel’s vegetable and herb gardens, egg-collecting from the eco-friendly henhouse, cookery lessons and wine tastings. Guided walks can also be arranged, including the famous Caldera hike, which reveals much of Santorini’s extraordinary geology and biodiversity.
Doubles from £590, B&B (0030 2286 036738; andronis.com)
Carved out of the hillside like some futuristic take on a Hobbit’s dwelling is adults-only Villa Nai, with just eight super-luxe rooms and suites. Glass walls and outdoor patios are designed to blur the lines between the interior and the expansive views of the pine and oak forests that ripple out across the island. Surrounded by olive groves, guests can join in with the harvest and learn about the production process, before tucking into olive oil-infused dishes at either the high-end 3.3 restaurant, where wines are paired with each course, or Grotta 11,000, which offers fish, seafood and locally sourced meats cooked over an open fire. The spa offers Thai and Balinese treatments, ideal after a day exploring the island’s sandy beaches and quiet unspoilt fishing villages.
Doubles from £614, B&B (00 385 23 643 520; villanai.com)
The hills of Piedmont seethe with life in autumn, when truffle hunters flock to the region for the prized white truffle, and the towns of Alba and Monforte hold renowned jazz festivals. Nordelaia is set just outside the small town of Cremolino, with 12 individually designed rooms across a colour palette that ranges from bold scarlet to soft grey. Some have spectacular views across the valley, others open straight onto the five acres of garden. Nearby walking and cycling trails run through woodland, past waterfalls and through forests ablaze with autumn colours. Predictably, food is an integral part of a stay here, with the Lorto restaurant focusing on seafood from the Ligurian coast and Italy’s lakes and rivers, alongside Piedmont’s rich vegetable harvest. 
Doubles from £356, B&B (0039 0143 038045; nordelaia.com)
Hands-on experiences are a big part of a stay at this restored 19th-century farmhouse, part of a sprawling wine estate, with organic gardens and centuries-old olive trees. Guests can help with the grape and olive harvests or join a sheep-to-farm workshop with the opportunity to make their own yarn (the region is famous for its merino wool). The sparsely luxurious rooms and cottages are a touch monastic, but all have access to the spa, outdoor pool and mountain bikes. The restaurant menu changes according to what’s available in the kitchen garden and from nearby producers, with picnics available for lazy afternoons. There’s a playroom and even a children’s vegetable garden with activity sheets to keep them busy.
Doubles from £347, B&B (00351 266 247140; barrocal.pt)
Just 45 minutes from Paris is the Barn, a chic countryside retreat surrounded by the lush Rambouillet forest, which glows with vivid auburn and gold foliage in autumn. October offers the chance to witness “le brame du cerf” – the mating calls and battles between the 200 deer living on the surrounding 500-acre estate – on a guided night-time excursion with an experienced guide. The temperature remains around 20C in autumn, ideal for wild swimming in the lake that adjoins the hotel, hiking, horse riding or e-biking, with a hammam, sauna and outdoor Nordic baths available for restorative soaks after. Rooms are sleek and unfussy, with Shaker-style furniture, abstract artworks and Egyptian cotton on the marshmallow-soft beds; book a deluxe room for a balcony with lovely views over the surrounding forest. 
Doubles from £175, B&B (00351 266 247140; lebarnhotel.com)
Tuscany might teem with tourists in summer, but during an autumn stay at this unusual eco-hotel, it’s possible to go all day without encountering another person on the 1,000 hectares of car-free wilderness. The 16 wooden lodges – channelling a sleek, Scandi design aesthetic – are a 25-minute shuttle ride from the arrival point, perched 3,000ft above the valley below, with the surrounding woodland home to rare plant species and a variety of wildlife including wolves and deer. Days are filled with environmentally focused activities, from e-biking through the woods to guided trekking adventures in search of Tuscany’s elusive wolf packs. Two “0km” restaurants deliver fine Italian cuisine with all ingredients sourced from the estate. The hotel is part of the Oasy Dynamo Reserve – the first in Italy to partner with the WWF (World Wide Fund for Nature) to manage and conserve the region’s biodiversity.
Doubles from £360, B&B (0039 0573 171 6062; oasyhotel.com)
If the Bavarian forests and mountains aren’t spectacular enough, the Rubezahl offers a front-row view of Neuschwanstein Castle, a Disney-esque confection with a spectacular hilltop location, flanked by swaths of flame-coloured foliage in autumn. The hotel is surrounded by a network of walking and cycling routes and has its own mountain guide, Basti, available for hiking tours up on the Tegelberg mountain. The large wellness garden, filled with alpine plants, is a lovely place in which to relax post-walk. Louis II restaurant serves classic dishes from the Allgau region, but the real treat is to head up the Tegelberg for a fondue in the hotel’s traditional mountain hut restaurant.
Doubles from £296, B&B (0049 8362 8888; hotelruebezahl.de)
Autumn is the perfect time to visit France’s premier wine region, when the low sun floods the fields with a warm, golden glow and the air is thick with the buzz of the harvest. Troplong Mondot, famous for its Premier Grand Cru wines, has a clutch of elegant rooms and suites spread across two buildings, and offers the opportunity for guests to join in with the harvest or explore the estate on a Land Rover tour. The village of Saint Emilion is a 20-minute walk through the vineyards or a quick e-bike ride (available to borrow from the Chateau). Michelin-starred Les Belles Perdrix offers fine dining, with many of the vegetables sourced from the estate’s permaculture vegetable garden.
Doubles from £210, B&B (0033 55755 3828; troplong-mondot.com)
The window between the end of summer and the first snowfall of winter is a unique time in the Alps, and the 400-year-old Forsthofgut – once a farm, now an architecturally striking hotel and wellness resort – is the ideal place to experience it. If conditions are right, skiing on the glacier ski area of the Kitzsteinhorn is open from mid-October, offering the chance to hike or mountain-bike in the morning, and strap on skis for the afternoon. Back at base, the waldSPA Lake house offers refreshing dips in the bathing lake or warming ones in the Onsen pool, plus a children’s pool and dedicated kids’ spa area. One of the three restaurants is exclusively vegan, with the second, R50, sourcing all its ingredients from no farther than 50km (31 miles) away.
Doubles from £227, B&B (0043 6583 8561; forsthofgut.at)
With temperatures still touching 30C in mid October, the western Algarve is a great choice for a last blast of proper sunshine, with the sea still warm and beaches much quieter than in the summer months. The Praia do Canal retreat is set in a 220-acre private estate that offers wonderful walking and birdwatching possibilities, with the skies full of migrating and other birds, including kites and vultures, black storks and osprey. Personal trainers, yoga classes and Elemis treatments in the spa provide the perfect pre-winter pick-me-up, while fish-rich dinners and inventive Portuguese cooking are on offer at the Azeitona restaurant.
Doubles from £264 B&B (00351 282 242400; praiadocanal.pt)